Comments (0) |

Everybody comes to Al's

By Wendy Miller Contributing Restaurant Critic

Lexington's approach to growth recalls John Lennon's memorable insight that life is what happens while you're making other plans. As our downtown works to reinvent itself with ideas and strategies, fresh energy is happening right now on North Limestone, pioneered and exemplified by Al's Bar.

In less than 18 months, this revived neighborhood watering hole has evolved into a culinary destination and a full-frontal music venue, broadening exposure to local jazz, indie and especially bluegrass talent, as well as sponsoring art classes, movie nights and the "holler poets" series that showcases the art of words.

Eat healthy and delicious here in these lean times for less than $5: Bison and lamb burgers, superb sweet potato fries, tender black-bean burgers and updated fried green tomatoes with basil mayonnaise are among the treats. Each item is prepared with a fine and unpretentious sensibility.

But what really impresses me is the beautiful social tapestry of the place, woven by an eclectic clientele encouraged to be themselves. Only troublemakers are not tolerated. Go at 6 on Friday evening and your bar companions might be speaking Spanish. Show up for dinner at 9:30 on a Thursday night; by 10 the (affordable) jukebox is playing Amy Winehouse, followed 30 minutes later by fiddle music and percussive food-stomping.

Holler poet and Northside resident Eric Sutherland has witnessed Al's development firsthand.

"It is a community hub that perfectly reflects the social dynamics of the neighborhood," he says. "On any given night, you will see African-Americans, Latinos and whites all mingling together at the bar or around the pool table. The décor hasn't changed since the changeover, which gives it a very low-key and humble charm; you have your framed unicorn and eagle prints along with beer signs and show posters.

"They have worked tremendously hard to be a good member of the community they are situated in, when they could have just as easily changed the whole dynamic of the place from the beginning and really alienated a majority of the neighborhood," he said.

A fresh mural on the side of the building, funded by LexArts and painted by Michael Burrell, reflects Sutherland's observations.

Credit for encouraging this unique ambience goes to the excellent servers and staff, and to the wise, warm and fun personality of part-owner and manager Josh Miller, who gravitated here after 10 years in professional kitchens, a stint of teaching English in China and a degree in law. He recognized early on that a law practice was not for him, but he finished school anyway because, as Miller says, "I'm not a quitter."

That's for sure.

Coming at the end of this month is Al's Side-Car, next door at 607 North Limestone. It will have a magnificent bar restored by a historic preservationist, drinks, Cajun fare and no cover charge. (Side-Car shares its address with Cultural Preservation Resources, a new music venue, that will feature the band Vox Arcana this weekend; see Page 6 for details.)

Vague comparisons with Casablanca, Bogart and Rick's Café Americain come to mind. For sure, Miller is sweet and Bogie was acerbic, pool and ping-pong take the place of roulette, and we are not in North Africa, but Miller understands bourbon and the same fundamental principle of a successful bar:

"In this business, you 'provide a place' and see what people do. You are who you attract, and you know the bartender who will be there. Consistency is important.

"The crowd is a big part of what you go for."