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The Pearl of Sandwiches

By Wendy Miller Contributing Restaurant Critic

VERSAILLES — Consider the origins of the sandwich.

In the 1700s, the Earl of Sandwich was reputedly more interested in gambling than food, refusing to leave the gaming table long enough to eat. For sustenance, he was brought straightforward, portable finger food — two slices of bread with meat between them. Little did he know, or presumably care, that a culinary tradition was being born.

These days, we too eat sandwiches, often as though we were distracted by something else and indifferent to the quality of the individual ingredients, aroused only by the primary flavors of salt, a spread or condiments. It's easy to forget that a superior sandwich can be almost miraculous, transforming simple yet fine building blocks into a meal far greater than the sum of its parts. So dependent on essentials, this basic "dish" reveals much about the character and values of its creator.

Using that measure, few around here care as much about quality as Wallace Station, a casual little Woodford County diner whose sandwiches make a big statement.

For one thing, the inch-thick slices of homemade bread — white, whole wheat or rye — with the crisscross brand of the grill, are crisp outside yet supple. How often is bread of star caliber?

Then there are the fillings, a far cry from the earl's unidimensional meat.

On Paige's veggie cheese ($7.95), which I ordered on whole wheat, there was a lovely mix of soft and sharp cheeses, the crunch of toasted almonds, a bit of horseradish for bite, bourbon mustard, refreshing sprouts, yellow tomato that tasted right off the vine, onion, local lettuce and roasted red peppers.

The Santa Anita club ($7.95) has more personality than a standard club that is essentially bacon, turkey, lettuce and tomato. This version ramps things up by adding pepperjack cheese, guacamole and spicy chipotle mayonnaise.

A cup of creamy coleslaw is a light accompaniment, made with sweet young cabbage, not the tough or bitter kind beyond its prime that is merely masked with mayonnaise, sour cream or both.

And now that the temperatures are cooler, it's the perfect time to try one of Wallace Station's soups, made in-house, of course. I loved the chicken and mushroom with carrots and celery ($3.50) that had the texture of chowder and lots of fresh verve. There was nothing watery, sludgy or hydrolyzed about it.

The display case houses a world of freshly baked bars and Frisbee-size cookies — OK, that's a slight exaggeration, but I bought a peanut butter and a molasses, each $3, and took three-quarters home.

No matter which road you take, the country drive is beautiful, as are the surroundings — and the sandwiches — once you arrive.

How much better is that than the gaming table, I ask you?

A generous lunch for two, including sides and dessert, was about $26.